Mike, Its been years in the making, working and building cars and working in auto upholstery industry eventually when you get old you finally know how to do these things, when actually, you needed to know it all when you were young!.
Demo drive for you and Ken.... That would be my pleasure!
Ken, great picture of the 427 FE tunnel port engine, I would gladly have that in my garage!
Cheers to all & thanks for everyone's input and comments!
Update: I have been working on the wiring over the last few days and now installed about 80% of it. I am just working on the alternator wiring as the original Monte Carlo Rallye cars were converted to an Alternator so I am reconfiguring the wiring loom.
I am also restoring the speedo cluster to complete the dash set up
I also fitted the tail lights, rear bumper and tow hook. The Rallye Monte Carlo plate is the same as used in the 1964 rallye as per the Graham Hill car, I need to add No 201 to it.
After the wiring under the hood is installed and I wire up the battery & exterior cut off switch the wiring will be complete
Last edited by Paul B; 03-30-2019 at 10:33 PM.
I have had a couple of weeks off and then started restoring all of the nuts, bolts & trim clips & brackets etc. Very time consuming but worth the detail to get it all looking schmecko.
The body nuts & bolts & trim clips are 5/16 UNF 24 thread so some parts are not possible to get aftermarket as mustangs and 65 Falcons all went to 5/16 UNC 18 thread so restoration of the correct parts was needed.
I also fitted the diff bumpers and diff vent, the diff still needs detailing
It's now ready for doors, trunk lid & front fenders, after I fit the front suspension
Last edited by Paul B; 03-13-2019 at 09:30 AM.
This is an unbelievable restoration even down to the nuts and bolts. Really looking to the finished product, reminds me of the diligence and perseverance of John McKecknie and the Monaro. Well done Paul.
Cheers Dave graham
Dave - at least you know exactly what has gone into the build of the car. Should be able to tick some of the boxes.
Thanks Dave,
If it goes as well as John's Monaro I will be stoked!
All of the wiring is in now I have sorted the alternator conversion circuitry (which was surprisingly easy) and relocating the regulator due to the engine oil cooler that the Monte Carlo Rallye cars ran in the day. I just need to finish & wrap the rest of the yellow alternator wires and finish fitting to the clip retainers. Then its on to the battery cable from boot to cut off switch etc. After all of that is done I will fit the battery and circuit test the whole system.
Important to note that when looking at the cut off switch it is not just the battery circuit that needs cutting off. The charging system cycles 12v from the alternator (or generator)via regulator to the battery but, more importantly, it is on that same circuit there will be one other larger wire that provides power to the entire electrical system plus the generator light wire. (In my car the large wire runs from the regulator to the light switch to power the electrical system)
So by disconnecting the battery only with a cut off switch may not actually stop your motor as the alternator is still providing power on a running engine, likely sufficient to keep your motor running.
Last edited by Paul B; 03-17-2019 at 09:47 AM. Reason: addition
If it went like Johns Monaro-
Body done twice.
Stripe on bonnet,roof and boot lid done twice.
Fuellie heads done twice.
4x 48 IDA Webers overhauled, then 2 years later all new internals
Just had the engine out for sleeve in cylinder.
Engine bay repainted correct colour white.
Seat belt mounting under seat re-positioned
So...how many jobs have you had to do twice Dad.........?
Last edited by John McKechnie; 03-14-2019 at 11:18 PM.
Only all the bits that got sent out to "experts" to do by the sound of it?? Not so "expert" after all, sadly.......Originally Posted by John McKechnie
Well .... where do I start? I have redone a few (a lot) jobs that I have not been happy with, there will be some teething issues upon start up with a full rebuild, but most of it I can only blame ME because I have done all of the work! apart from spraying the etch, primers & finishing coats. Soo.... no pressure at all!
I actually meant, if it drove as well and as fast as John's Monaro I would be stoked.
Last edited by Paul B; 04-10-2019 at 06:25 AM.
And I was with Angus this afternoon, he started the Monaro, its ready for next weekend...none of his work has had to be done twice. Thats why I took it there.
Hi Paul, Been following this build on T.R.S. and offer my congratulations on such a fantastic job. As per your comments on the wiring cut off switch , you are bang on re stopping of the engine after alternator conversion. I struck exactly this situation on my Mustang . Initial start up and cam run –in then flicked off the ignition switch only the have it keep going. Pulled the battery lead off and still carried on. Luckily a 4 speed car , so jumped in and stalled the engine to stop it. Was all nearly 20 years ago so have forgotten the exact fix I used , a simple diode in the wiring so it couldn’t backfeed from memory ! Looking forward to seeing this on the road and track. RegardsThanks Dave,
If it goes as well as John's Monaro I will be stoked!
All of the wiring is in now I have sorted the alternator conversion circuitry (which was surprisingly easy) and relocated the regulator due to the engine oil cooler that the Monte Carlo Rallye cars ran in the day. I just need to wrap the rest of the yellow alternator wires and finish fitting to the clip retainers. Then its on to the battery cable from boot to cut off switch etc. After all of that is done I will fit the battery and circuit test the whole system.
Important to note that when looking at the cut off switch it is not just the battery circuit that needs cutting off. The charging system cycles 12v from the alternator (or generator)via regulator to the battery but, more importantly, it is on that same circuit there will be one other larger wire that provides power to the entire electrical system. (In my car the wire runs from the regulator to the light switch to power the electrical system)
So by disconnecting the battery only with a cut off switch may not actually stop your motor as the alternator is still providing power on a running engine, likely sufficient to keep your motor running.
Hi Parnelli,
Thanks for your post! Very true and good advice with the Zener diode installation, to stop engine run on for a street car generator/alternator conversion (depending on the OEM wiring configuration).
I think it goes into the wire to your generator light to stop back run of current when ignition is switched off, as you say.
Cheers
I have wired the rear mounted battery cables today from:
The battery mounted in the trunk to,
The interior dash cut off switch to
The exterior cowl mounted cut off switch to
The solenoid under the hood.
The battery/ignition current feed wire from the regulator will be redirected to the hot/current side of the interior cut off switch.
To complete this circuit:
A New wire will be fixed to the cold side of the external cut off switch and then fixed to the ignition
This will allow the battery/alternator circuit to still function correctly while isolating the rest of the electrical system when either cut off switch is OFF/open. Both cut off switches will need to be ON/closed for the car to run.
But either cut off switch can be switched off to stop the car.
The Zener diode (as mentioned by Parnelli) will be also added for safety to the 12v hot side of the generator light wires(the engine off hot feed) to allow current to travel from Regulator to the Gen' light only, but not back flow through the other 12v wire connected to the generator light when the engine is switched off.
If you can be bothered reading all that confusing blurb!
Here's the pics
Still need to fit wire retainer clips
The original Monte Carlo Rallye cars had the battery wire fitted inside a rubber tube as this picture shows.
Last edited by Paul B; 08-01-2020 at 08:26 AM.
Hi Paul
What are your plans regarding a firewall between the passenger compartment and the boot/trunk area. Are you going to retain the original fuel tank location?
Hi Lou,
Thanks for your post, The 1964 Falcon Original Monte Carlo Rallye cars had 102ltr capacity, approx 60 ltrs in the OEM tank and 42 ltrs in another tank which was mounted in Boot/trunk just above the diff or thereabouts. So I will create the same but the 42ltr tank will be a race fuel cell to comply with rules. If I run full OEM upholstery I dont think I need a rear Firewall, But I have also fabricated some .7mm aluminum plates to screw in behind the back seat which will seal off the area if required.
The original tank will remain (it has been restored and Tank sealed)
Cheers
Paul...I was told to seal off between the cabin and the boot.
No holes between cabin and boot, cabin and engine bay, cabin and ground.
Seats are not seals, avoid disappointment on the day and fit those plates.
Thanks John,
Good advice, Probably much safer too, I will install the aluminum plates.
Cheers
Update:
All the wiring is in now, just some tidy up detailing work to now. So I started fitting the body panels today. It really makes all the difference doing the pre-primer panel pre-fit and gapping, then on the body and when primed pre-paint, because fitting after the paint is applied is super easy, it all fits like a glove. Always consider the thickness of the primer and finishing coats with regard to all panel gaps.
Fiberglass doors - as per FIA homologation 1250
Fiberglass fender - as per FIA homologation 1250
Fiberglass trunk. - as per FIA homologation 1250
Fiberglass fender - as per FIA homologation 1250
Last edited by Paul B; 04-09-2019 at 07:47 AM.
Wow! (Nothing else to say)
All that fibreglass, a good puff of wind will blow the thing over. Glorious job!!
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