Did you say understeer?
Did you say understeer?
Not sure what you mean Andrew?Originally Posted by Andrew Metford
The two video clips prior to this, the cars had a lot of oversteer going on, which is fun to watch.
On the in-car video, he seems to be turning the wheel a lot to get it around the corners. Looks to me like lots of understeer, but maybe it's got a low ratio steering rack ( i.e. not a quick rack )?
They are under shod and the tyres are bias treaded hence why they slide around. Basically the same tyres as we use in HMC but narrower.
Regards
Bruce
Yes, Spgeti is right.
Also these types cars have a worm & sector shaft steering box, they are sometimes notorious for center play at the steering wheel. Which means sometimes extra turning left or right, past center to take up a bit of the play. (not uncommon for 1/16 turn left or right to take up play in a incorrectly adjusted box)
Definitely not ideal, its possible to adjust this out providing there is not excessive wear on the worm block or sector shaft.
Also the steering could likely be 17:1 which also would not help.
Great drive though! on post #260
Cheers
There are pretty strict rules to get the cars appearing as they did in their time. Of course the engine department is nothing like it. Looks the same, but the extra horsepower..... (My opinion and I am allowed it)
You are correct Rhys and you are allowed as well....There are pretty strict rules to get the cars appearing as they did in their time. Of course the engine department is nothing like it. Looks the same, but the extra horsepower..... (My opinion and I am allowed it
Agree! opinions are good.
My goal is to build inside and out, exactly the same as the 1964 Graham Hill #201 car. I have been collecting parts according to the historic photos I have been working off. have been collecting a lot of old parts and restoring them to achieve this.
I want to be able to open the hood and there it is the same as 1964.
Also not planning to build an engine with extra HP, I will be building an engine based exactly on what was built by Holman & Moody. I may add some stronger conrods to preserve the engine as the K series 289 HP engine blocks/engines are extremely rare now and expensive, if you could get one with enough meat in the bores to use.
It is all coming into place as I now have 95% of all the parts to complete the car.
Update:
I have been preparing the car for paint primer for the last 2 months and about 85% through now. The fiberglass parts again have been slowing me down as they require so much work to prepare them so the panels don't look like the pacific ocean when you look down the side of the car.
Last edited by Paul B; 10-18-2018 at 10:14 AM.
Maybe the panels were like the Pacific Ocean in the day Paul
Yes agree Rhys. I do not think the 1964 original fiberglass panels would have been perfect by any means, so I am leaving some minor deflection of the new fiber panels in this build. in an attempt to keep it real.Maybe the panels were like the Pacific Ocean in the day Paul
The big problem with fiber panels is where, for example, a boot lid is made in 2 pieces and the outer skin is glassed to the entire inner frame and over time some shrinkage occurs at the bonding points, which causes a lot of hollows and high spots in the outer skin. This can take months to show after the panels are made. I will be looking to remove most of this (pacific ocean) only.
Dead right Paul. It was an area we worked hard to prevent when I worked in the industry. Not hard to eliminate at moulding stage if you just use "correct" techniques, but a real pain later on. I admire your efforts.
It might pay to leave them for a while before painting just in case the tide comes back in.
Thanks Rhys, The panels were made about 12 months ago and I have been leaving them cure in my hot garage and in the sun to give them a good cooking. I am expecting further movement in the panels once the paint solvent hits it.
These panels were manufactured a little too light, in my opinion, mainly made for drag racing, but I have put a lot more woven structural glass into the undersides of all the panels to get them to where they need to be, I am very happy with where they all are now but it has cost me so much time it would have been quicker to make my own plugs and panels.
You live and learn. It has been a good experience and I now have a fairly good understanding (and appreciation) of Fiberglass.
Hey Paul,
You could put on some logging truck mudflaps and join the rally scene !
Ken H
Looks like a ton of fun Ken!
The Swedes just love sideways motorsport and they are very good at it.
Cheers
Time for an update on the Falcon Rally Sprint. Following on from post #220, I have done the final panel fit & gap of all of the fiberglass panels and very happy with the fit.... now. I have been working on paint primer preparation for the last 2 months and the whole car is all straight now also the fiber panels are all epoxy etch primed
I have some small finishing to do and seam sealing then its gets an all over 240 sand in for pre-paint primer and then more sanding.
Bodywork is always the longest part of the build.
Last edited by Paul B; 10-18-2018 at 10:16 AM.
Superb work Paul, what a build, please don't bend it!
That is looking amazing Paul! Great work.
Thanks Steve & Rhys,
Certainly not going to bend it after the time and energy shoveled into it. I will probably drive like a Nana for a while! or at least until I get the feel of the car. I am very keen to drive it.
I just love analog cars, no computers, no beeps & dings etc and I can tune it without a computer!
Cheers
Last edited by Paul B; 03-28-2018 at 09:12 PM.
Paint preparation is all about detail, patience and perseverance -
and to coin a phrase from Forest Gump:
"And that's all I've got to say about that"
This week I have been working on sanding the floors & epoxy etch priming. I now have no fingerprints left.
On most of the weld repairs I have left the reverse side very smooth but a weld line just visible as you can see in the top left side of this pic. There is a triangle shape repair to the floor just below the roll cage floor plate. This is part of the time line character of the car.
Rear seat floor area
Last week I finished the rear of the car which completes the outside, ready for 240grit sand then primer
When preparing a car shell that has been totally paint stripped there are many more tasks to complete and more surfaces to prepare coupled with the all important seam sealing.
Its very close now.
Last edited by Paul B; 08-06-2018 at 09:34 PM. Reason: typo
So Paul,
How many of your mates can you fit in the boot/trunk to sneak into the race track ?
(such as in the old days at Pukekohe and Bay Park by someone I know ! )
(No wonder NZ motor racing lost money !)
KJH
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