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Thread: Looking to Build 1/32 Slot Car Grid of B&H 500/1000, need grid info for 1968-78

  1. #21
    Mr. Fart,

    My strong preference were to be for a resin option. If I obtained a vac formed body, I would either then ship it to a friend to cast in resin from it (just for me to use; I would buy the same number of vac forms as I would make in resin), or try myself to add some coating underneath to equalize the weight with the rest of the field of hard plastic or resin cars(Bruce at Pattos used to sell such a product, but does no more, and my bottle I'm sure has degraded over the decades, so if any of you have successfully done such a hardbody-equivalent undercoating to a vac form body, I would love to here your success stories of such products; for example, I swear by Australian INOX for braid here, and import it for my use). Neither option is preferred, but if vac forms of some of my missing bodies is all you can do, then I would still be very grateful. Please put me down as an interested party, and let me know (if you pm me here, just let me know in the thread) the body style and type of bodies (resin or vac form), when they would be available, their price (including shipping to the US) and how to pay you.

    bry3500, I routinely raid the horn of plenty of Mr. Bruce ("Patto") over the last twenty years (decals, bodies and running gear), including some vac formed Aussie bodies of his when I had no other option, but I have tried to grandfather them out as redundant as I have found hard bodies of the body style with Australian casters or elsewhere (ex. I bought a stockpile of Monaro HQs from him to then backcast in resin to make them the proper weight, but the resin melted the bodies (the friend who did it for me said), or it preserved the warped orientation of the original vac formed body). I was not backcasting them for me to resell, but just taking the number of vac forms I bought to make an identical number for my personal use in the proper weight. I would much prefer original hardbodies in plastic or resin if at all possible.

    Thanks to all of you for taking the time to help me out.

  2. #22
    Mr Nashville, I'm curious why you want to use resin bodies for active slot cars. Today I was with the body maker for RC stockcars (UK type that bash and crash) and he couldn't understand why either as he said they won't take the banging that his bodies will. Resin after all is only polyester with filler powder with almost no strength.(Like body filler for panel " beating")

  3. #23
    As opposed to vacuum-formed versions? If you are referring to that, I used to run Lexan-bodied, metal chassied cars on commercial tracks for many years. However, my main interest in slot cars is the general scale realism, versus the ability to extract the last bit of speed, and make them blurs around the track. My tracks are relatively small (50-75 feet) in length (although 4-6 lanes wide), and have a lot of detailed scenery around the layout that would be vulnerable to high-speed cars. A cheap 1/32 plastic chassied and wheeled slot car with a hard plastic body (hard plastic injected molded or resin bodied) and wheels, and generally stock tires can be quite a handle to drive and get grip, which auto-modulates the speed down the cars and both protects the layout scenery and lets the cars look more scale-realistic when running and more enjoyable for those who want to recreate the "golden age" of racing, and more fun for spectators too. The speeds attained are more than enough for old geezers like me, and hard bodies, which can show a lot more car detail than vacuumed formed, are more than durable enough to handle our guardrails and low speed hits, and are more than a challenge to drive and hold good, intense races. I also enjoy fixing up and racing a body on a chassis with great care and attention to making it pretty authentic in its look, and using the craftsmanship of a new bodymaker friend from around the world, and getting around the track dicign with and leaning against similar cars lovingly put together by my friends. That's why!

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  4. #24
    World Champion Roger Dowding's Avatar
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    Slot Car Tracks.

    Nashville,call you " Nash " for short.
    Those track shots look great - even if sideways as taken on a camera I guess. ***
    The one with the MG "Safety Fast " overbridge - is that modeled on Sebring ? as brings this scene to mind. Photo from the Dave Friedman book " Corvette Grand Sports " 1;43 models by Universal Hobbies - Eagles Race brand.

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    Your scene ..

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    *** Your photo has restrictions so I could not turn it !!.

  5. #25
    Yep, Sebring it is! - 1964 era version. The pictures look oriented correctly to me here within the thread where I see it, although I had turned the camera for the correct aspect ratio. By the way, I do have the cars you showed, as well as just about everything else from that era! I also have a six lane routed short track and another four-lane road race track that I will also double up for Bathurst (and reconfigure the Sebring track for Sandown), but I can reorient the track table to do Watkins Glen, Road Atlanta, Road America, Laguna Seca, etc.). In my glassed in porch outside the basement, I have ad hoc temporary table layouts to do Le Mans, Monza, Warwick Farms, Pukekohe, and others in four lanes, as well as a twelve-lane track to run 24 cars in digital guise, and an eight lane crossover Figure Eight track.

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